Double-breasted suit a must-have

0212-1-1-15239256_10207978341191525_581523230_NTafadzwa Zimoyo Fashion Talk 263 —
Take time to have a weird imagination of what people will say at your funeral. “Here lies the body of a fashionista who took his or her time changing the world with fashion.”

I hope I find you well and how is the closet? One good thing about the weekend is that it is the best time to spend some quality time with family and friends by going out with them.

You can also enjoy with friends or family at get-together events, which occur before the weekend. A lot of events are lined up and of course this is the season.

Last week saw the re-branded Miss Tourism Zimbabwe 2016 pageant taking place and Ashley Morgen was crowned the winner. I must say and repeat that Zimbabweans now know how to dress for events especially on red carpets.

As one of the many hosts, last week I managed to have a glimpse and touch with local designers, socialites, fashionistas and models on how the local fashion is evolving.

Are we ready for the Lady Gaga style or we afraid to take risks? I noticed that style is a way to say who you are without having to speak. Well done Zimbabweans.

However, there is an outcry over so many fashion awards and how people are being selected. Congratulations to all nominees but I guess the debate on fashion stars should fade away because just like music, it is always clear as we all know who dresses the most and who is stylish among the rest.

What I urge those hosting the awards is that they should have meaning and respect rather than doing the awards for the sake of awards. It would be unfair not to applaud last week’s pageant hosts Tich Mahoni and Rebecca Muchenje who were well-dressed.

Mahoni was dressed by 4 May while Rebecca chose different local designs that outwitted even the models. Mahoni nailed it and for this event he walked away as the best dressed male not only because they fitted well but the secret in fashion is confidence, “dress like you are already famous”.

That sequinned glittering jacket matching with his shoe heel was envied by many. Star of the week: V is for VIGANO One thing you need to know is apart from being a fashion critic and enthusiast, I like to be bold.

A well-tied tie is the first serious step in fashion life. Take a well-tailored suit and put a man in it, you won’t go wrong. I thought of this after Zimbabwe fashion house Vigano dressed me at the red carpet for Miss Tourism Zimbabwe 2016.

I wore a double-breasted blue blazer with a matching trouser. Again being perfectly well-dressed gives one a tranquility that no religion can bestow.

“The difference between a man of sense and a fop is that the fop values himself upon his dress; and the man of sense laughs at it, at the same time he knows he must not neglect it,” noted Lord Chesterfield.

This week style session is on the six-button suits which I call “bold” while others say they are “old”. Plenty of designers have hopped on the trend for revamped, modern double-breasted jackets, but we have a few favourites.

At the top end of the scale are Brioni and Zegna, two luxury Italian fashion houses that never disappoint when it comes to suits. And Vigano is doing well. Their clientele has spread from nonentity to ministers, diplomats and socialites.

They are revolutionising suits. The double-breasted suits are the in-thing with international famous people like Cary Grant, Clark Gable, Al Pacino and Donald Trump popularising the trend.

However, let’s face it: the double-breasted blazer has its work cut out for it. While there have always been guys who make it look cool, there are also stuffy politicians, irksome preppy posh boys, old-school gangsters and high-powered 1980s bankers giving the double-breasted suit a bad name.

Fortunately, fashion-forward guys like Jake Gyllenhaal, Ryan Gosling and David Beckham have brought the look back and transformed it for the 21st century.

As much as we love that the double-breasted look is back in style, many are still sceptical on it, how to rock it well. One thing you need to know is double-breasted jackets are best suited to leaner men.

Those with more flesh on their bones are visually widened by the double-breasted structure, creating an unflattering optical illusion. However, if you’ve got the build for it, a double-breasted suit emphasises the broad shoulders or narrow waist silhouette considered the male ideal.

“In contrast to their predecessors, today’s double-breasted blazers are sleekly tailored and cut shorter.

“The jacket skims the body but doesn’t hug it, and the armholes are cut higher to create a cleaner look. The shoulders are natural, soft and tailored rather than sharp and bulky. All in all, it makes for a double-breasted suit that retains its original sense of elegance while embracing modern minimalism,” said Shearol Langeveldt from Vigano Collezione Uomo manager.

Asked if one can wear a double-breasted suit on the regular, she said it is a tricky look to pull off every day, except for the most confident and stylish men, but it’s certainly worth at least occasional wear.

“On a basic level, the double-breasted suit is appropriate anywhere you would wear a single-breasted suit. It is slightly more formal, but it depends on your mood and style.

“But when it comes time to cut loose and show off your sartorial mastery, like a party or a night out with the lads, the double-breasted blazer is a daring departure from the single-breasted status quo,” she cited.

However, according to suits-guide, these days, the most common button constructions are 6×2 and 4×2. The former is the easier of the two options, so start there if you’re new to the double-breasted blazer.

To wear it, fasten the middle button while leaving the bottom undone, and keep it that way regardless of whether you’re standing or sitting. The anchor button should also remain fastened at all times.

If you’re going the 4×2 route, fasten the top button and the anchor button and, again, keep them both closed at all times. As big a statement as the double-breasted jacket makes, it can still be worn casually.

The easiest way to dress down the DB is to wear it with chinos or dark denim. If your double-breasted jacket is part of a suit, split it into separates. As a general rule, the more unstructured the jacket, the more casual it is.

A Henley or other lightweight tee and rugged work boots complete a double-breasted look that’s chic but dressed down. Golden tip I learnt is that the double-breasted jacket needs to be done up unless seated. Keep fashion alive and don’t fall off trends.

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