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The Epicurean
Thai cuisine is known for a stunning variety of visual delights and content flavours, some of them very hot, and for the use of a range of herbs, spices and other leaf or fruit ingredients that give it a unique style set apart from the Chinese and Indian foods with which they are invariably compared.

Thai cooking has in recent decades become one of the world’s most popular culinary styles, as testified by the huge number of Thai food outlets across the world. Even in Harare, we have a choice in this regard, with no fewer than two dedicated restaurants and a specialised takeaway. One of these is the well-sited Sabai restaurant, close to the Rolfe Valley shopping centre and St John’s College in the so-called ‘golden triangle’ of the city’s northern suburbs. The other is Chang Thai, situated a few kilometres south of Sabai, in the Gun Hill area. They are linked not only by the themed cuisine that each provides, but also by a family connection.

Each restaurant has grown in stature over the years and each is now generally regarded as well-established and with what overseas food writers call ‘a good table.’ Readers will also be keen to know there is also a good Thai takeaway in the New lands shopping centre, and further afield there is an Asian fusion restaurant in Victoria Falls, called Namtook, which is run by a delightful Thai chef.

Delightful green curry Thai style

Sabai is run by Russell and Ning Macdonald and the family connection I mentioned is that Chang Thai is run by Russell’s brother, Bruce, and his wife, Aui. Both these ladies are exceptional chefs and their offerings are superb. I have dined at each on several occasions in the past year or so, and each experience has been a culinary treat, so full marks to these creative chefs. Interesting, both restaurants started life in Msasa, close to Doon Estate, but Change Thai, which was there first, moved to Gun Hill in order to get night-time trade up. Sabai took over the Msasa spot but also moved out of Msasa and into Rolfe Valley after a relatively short time. The restaurants have never looked back since their respective moves.

Sabai means relax in Thai and apparently it is common in that country to hear ‘sabai, sabai’ mentioned. It has a distinctly Thai feel, as it is spread out across several venues within the garden centre complex on a longstanding residential property. The view from these is of green gardens and lots of trees. Last time my guest and I dined at Sabai, being aware that the portions were huge, we dispensed with starters, and went for main courses followed by dessert. Our mains came from the specials listed for the day, but we checked out the extensive main menu and were dazzled by an array of tantalising options. I had a yellow chicken curry, mild to taste, while my guest went for the grilled prawns with a superb sauce, accompanied by plain noodles and fried rice. Amazing flavours, great food and very satisfying in quality and quantity.

For dessert, my guest had plain ice cream while I had the sticky toffee pudding, which was outstanding and, although not very Thai, this dish was a great complement to the Thai flavours of the main course.  On each of our visits, we have enjoyed the opportunity of being able to chat to Russell about the style of the venue and his experiences in the trade. Prices at the restaurant are at the level we have come to expect for family restaurants in Harare, but the specials of the day generally have attractive, competitive pricing, and I think one could enjoy a good meal for two for the same price as some of the roast or daily specials being offered now by many venues in Harare.

Chang Thai restaurant offers Thai food is visually appealing, a delight to taste and, as I often say, its flavours are so varied and tangy that they are actually entertaining.

The menu tells you that Chang Thai means Thai Elephant, and goes on to say how revered the elephant is in that south-east Asian country. We ate there at lunchtime and my guest selected a sesame prawn starter, koong chup pang tod – three deep-fried tempura prawns with a sweet chilli sauce, which she found exceptional. She followed this with crispy duck, known as ped tod, served with a special dark sauce and what looked like mountains of tender and juicy mushrooms, all of which she found delightful. I sampled the duck and was also impressed; genuinely crispy but without the dryness that sometimes removes the charm of the dish.

I had a hot and spicy prawn soup for starter – called tom yum koong – and it was not only tasty and satisfying; it was also very substantial, filled with prawns, mushrooms and herbs and I had asked for mild so I was not overwhelmed by any heat.

This most certainly could serve as a satisfying meal on its own. For main course, I had —as I had several times at the old venue – a green curry, this time a prawn-based one; I could have chosen vegetable, chicken or beef options of the same curry. Called gang keaw wan, this was really enjoyable, with a superb coconut flavour infusing the prawns, vegetables and sauce, and a freshness emanating from the herbs. We had steamed plain rice to accompany.

For dessert my guest had sticky rice with mango slices, which she said was good, while I had a simpler choice: ice cream with mango slices.

The desserts are really simple, and I wonder just how many people do actually manager to get to this course after a starter and mains; we had take-home packs from both main courses. Their menu is extensive and inviting, and — like Sabai — there is a good selection of wine to choose from in obtaining an accompaniment for the meal. I am hoping that a wine group to which I belong will do a food and wine pairing involving Thai food soon; it will interesting to identify the best or most suitable wines to accompany this incredibly interesting food.

Sabai Thai Restaurant is at the corner of Rolfe Avenue and Stokesay Close in Harare’s Ballantyne Park/Rolfe Valley/Greystone Park area and is open daily for lunch and dinner except Monday. Call (0242) 852695 or 0776 743775. Chang Thai opens from Monday to Saturday for lunch (12pm to 3pm) and supper (6pm to 10pm) and is closed Sunday and on public holidays. It is at 83 Churchill Road, Gun Hill. Call (0242) 783054, 0779 763666 or 0773 222276. E-mail: [email protected].

At both restaurants Fridays and Saturdays can be extremely busy and advance booking is recommended. It certainly is time for Thai food in Harare!

Feedback is welcome, especially comments on recent dining experiences, and can be sent to [email protected].