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Walter Nyamukondiwa–Mashonaland West Bureau Chief 

The Mahwindo Falls in Hurungwe are like windows carved out of a rock with the sculptor’s chisel providing a breathtaking spectacle as water gushes out along the Sanyati River.

A natural floodgate!

The falls are a marvel to watch for tourists as water plunges several metres to a pool underneath before it flows freely into Lake Kariba at the Sanyati Gorge.

They are located about 4km from the confluence of Sanyati and Chiroti rivers, enveloped by thick unadulterated foliage and breathtaking scenery. 

Just a stone throw away along the Chiroti River is the baboon’s den, or chiro, where the animals retire for the night.

Did you know that baboons have a clinic where injured or ailing baboons are nursed to health and remain when other baboons go out to forage for food? Yes, at the chiro one can see baboons that have all sorts of conditions recuperate.

On the mountain slopes are shelf-like “beds” where the bedridden baboons sleep while regaining their health and they do not run away, even if one gets closer to them.

It’s because they are sick! At no time do you find the “sick bay” empty. 

I digress!

When in full flow, water plunges several metres, forming some mist, which cools the searing heat of the Sanyati Valley as tiny droplets waft through the air forming a rainbow.

It is a mini-Victoria Falls, dwarfed in every respect, for the mighty falls are bigger in length and width, boisterous and carry a more spectacular status in the world.

It’s the Seventh Wonder of the World after all! While the Smoke That Thunders are plunge waterfalls, cataracts even, the Mahwindo Falls flow through the rock formation, having created channels that mimic windows.

What the Mahwindo Falls lacks in size, it wedges on its uniqueness and mystery that have kept them hidden for a long time.

The Rengwe Conservancy has chalets that are undergoing renovations and upgrading, but retain their traditional hut look and feel.

Add to that spectacle, another mystery just 52km by road, the Gandavaroyi Falls in Gokwe and wild animals, including elephants, buffalo, leopard and the lion, one has a full package safari in the wilderness.

The Gandavaroyi Falls carry a historical baggage of mysticism associated with being the Hells Gate for suspected witches in pre-colonial times.

Folklore says that witches and wizards were thrown into the 50m deep waterfalls as punishment for tormenting society.

The practice is said to have ended around 1920. Both falls, the Gandavaroyi and Mahwindo, now form part of the 35 000-hectare Rengwe Conservancy, a partnership between Hurungwe Rural District Council and businessman Mr Temba Mliswa.

Guide Mr Richard George said the conservancy, which had been dormant in recent years owing to reduced number of patrons and poaching, is on the rebound.

“We have a lot of game here, including the Big  Five, except the rhino only. There are attractions such as Gandavaroyi Falls just where the conservancy ends,” he said. “There is also the Mahwindo Falls which are very unique in that water flows through openings like windows on a rock. When in full flow, the water forms tiny droplets like the Victoria Falls.”

The conservancy also has Matangi Site, where tank-like formations are found along the river channel with clear waters where fish can be seen swimming freely.

Rengwe Conservancy was launched recently and has attracted tourists who want the barest of necessities.

At the centre of the conservancy are chalets that are undergoing renovations and upgrading but retaining their traditional hut look and feel. Fitted with thatched roof, the round huts are cooler than the outside and only have a bed with outside toilets and kitchen.

Proprietor Mr Temba Mliswa said the chalets cater for mostly international tourists who want to step out of modernity and live on the edge. In harmony with nature.

Wild animals like elephants walk through the camp and the population is increasing as poaching has been reduced.

“We have had traffic and in some cases, we host up to seven groups who camp here and prepare their own food using gas because we want to conserve the environment,” he said.

“There is vast potential for our people to get into the industry and also for our people to experience the wild, reboot away from the urban settings.”

Long-time caretaker of the facility, Mr Mereki Poswett, said he joined the conservancy in 1992 and has seen the changes that have taken place over the years until everything came to a standstill.

“From around the year 2000, things started changing and there was no one to run the conservancy after the number of tourists dropped,” said Mr Poswett. “Things have looked up since the coming in of Mr Mliswa and his partners. There is always activity now. Tourists are flocking to camp here and experience the attractions on offer.”

Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority regional manager Mr Felix Chimeramombe said the project was contributing positively to the conservation of biodiversity “and as Zimparks we cannot do conservation on our own without development partners”.

He said conservation of biodiversity would help in accumulating higher carbon credit scores. The Rengwe Conservancy chalets are along the Bumi Hills, Binga and Victoria Falls route favoured by tourists who love road trips in 4x4s vehicles.